Hiking and backpacking to the summit of Mount Whitney in California’s Eastern Sierra is the kind of Type 2 fun that becomes legendary in your personal highlight reel. At 14,505 feet, it’s the tallest peak in the contiguous U.S., and summiting it is a bucket-list adventure for thousands of hikers each year. Whether you’re here for the views, the challenge, the bragging rights—or all of the above—this is a trail that will test you, humble you, and ultimately reward you.
There are a few ways to reach the summit of this incredible mountain:
- The Mountaineer’s Route (aka spicy and only for the experienced climber).
- A thru-hike finale if you’re ending epic routes like the John Muir Trail, High Sierra Trail, or Pacific Crest Trail.
- The classic and most popular option: the Mount Whitney Trail from Whitney Portal—a 21.2-mile out-and-back journey with a whopping 6,600+ feet of elevation gain. This is the route we took, and the one this blog covers.
We chose to backpack it over two days, which gave us more time to soak in the scenery, acclimate to the altitude, and be the most gentle on our bodies through the ascent and descent. While many brave souls day-hike it (starting at 1 a.m. with headlamps and pure willpower), we were in it for the long haul—and honestly, I wouldn’t have done it any other way.
Permits for Hiking & Backpacking Mount Whitney
Now, before you lace up your boots and start dreaming about summit views, you’ll need to secure a permit. This is where things get a bit competitive.
Permits are required year-round for anyone hiking or backpacking Mount Whitney. But during the peak season (May through October) when they become especially limited due to the number of people hoping to visit this fragile, high-alpine environment.
Each year, a permit lottery opens on Recreation.gov around February 1st and remains open for the month. You’ll submit your desired dates, group size, and trip type (day hike or overnight), and then cross your fingers. Lottery results are announced in mid-March, and if you’re selected, you’ll need to confirm your plans and pay a $15 per person, non-refundable fee to officially reserve your spot.
If you don’t score a permit through the lottery, don’t panic just yet—any unclaimed permits are released on a first-come, first-served basis, typically in April, at 7:00 a.m. PT. These go quickly (as in, refresh-your-browser-like-it’s-Taylor-Swift-ticket-sales quickly), so mark your calendar and be ready.
Important Notes on the Mount Whitney Lottery:
- Only one application per household or group is allowed—submitting multiple entries can get all of them disqualified.
- You must designate a trip leader and alternate during your application, and only those individuals are allowed to pick up and use the permit.
- Permits are not transferrable or resellable, even if your best friend promises to bring extra snacks.
- Make sure to reference rec.gov for the lottery schedule for your intended summit year, schedule reminders, and may the odds be in your favor.
Mount Whitney Day Hike vs. Overnight Trek
There are two types of permits available:
- Day Use: 100 spots per day during peak season.
- Overnight Use: 60 spots per day.
While a day hike is doable for the physically fit and willing (and makes for a very memorable alpine start), I personally recommend backpacking if you have the flexibility. It gives your body more time to adjust to the altitude, lets you take in the views at a slower pace, and minimizes the risk of being forced to turn around due to AMS (Altitude Mountain Sickness)—which affects a surprising number of hikers on this trail.
We backpacked the trail over two days and found it to be a much more enjoyable and manageable way to experience Mount Whitney. Plus, there’s something special about watching the alpenglow light up the granite from a high campsite the night before summit day. (Yes, it’s cold. But also… kind of magical.)
Mount Whitney Trail Information
↟ Water Sources: Reliable water is available from streams and lakes along the trail. One of the last main areas to fill up will be at Trail Camp. Bring a filter and always treat water. Don’t rely on snowmelt in late summer- it’s usually long gone.
↟ No Pooping on Trail (Yes, Really): All hikers are required to pack out human waste, including toilet paper. WAG bags (waste kits) are provided at the trailhead- grab one, use it, and dispose of it properly back at Whitney Portal in the designated bin.
↟ Overnight Camping: Backpackers typically stay at Outpost Camp (10,360’) or Trail Camp (12,000’). These are high-elevation, exposed sites. Expect wind, cold temps (even in summer), and minimal privacy. Choose durable, vegetation-free spots at least 100 feet from water sources and trails. Trail Camp is where we chose to stay and it put us at the perfect location to start early the next morning on the 1,000 switchbacks.
↟ Altitude Awareness on Mount Whitney: This trail spends most of its time above 10,000 feet, topping out at over 14,500 feet- altitude sickness is a real risk. Even if you’re fit, it can hit you hard. Acclimate ahead of time if you can, take it slow, and pay attention to how your body feels. Headaches, nausea, dizziness, and confusion are all early signs, and they can escalate quickly.
There are hundreds of people each year who get altitude sick on this trail, and while most make it down safely, not everyone does. It’s serious. If someone in your group isn’t doing well, support their decision to turn around and be prepared to turn around with them. No summit is worth risking your life, or theirs. The mountain will still be there in the future for you to summit another day.
↟ No Drones, No Speakers, No Wheels: This is a designated wilderness area. Drones are prohibited, and blasting music disrupts the very reason you’re here. Keep the vibes natural. No bikes or wheeled devices are allowed either (non-motorized wheelchairs are the only exception).
↟ Storms & Weather: Weather on Whitney changes fast. Clear mornings can turn into hail and lightning by afternoon, especially in summer. Start early, pack layers, and keep an eye on the sky. If a storm rolls in, don’t wait- descend quickly. Lightning above tree line is dangerous and can cost you your life.
↟ Sun & Hydration: Above 10,000 feet, the sun feels even more intense. Bring sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses (crutial!!) to keep your skin and eyes happy. Staying hydrated is just as important. Drink plenty of water throughout the day and remember to replenish electrolytes to keep your energy up and avoid headaches. Don’t wait until you’re thirsty—by then, you’re already a step behind.
↟ Recreate Responsibly: Follow Leave No Trace ethics—stay on trail, don’t cut switchbacks, pack out all trash (including your sh—!, PLEASE.), and be a good steward of the wild places you’re lucky enough to explore.
Trail Report
Trip Dates: October 3rd-4th, 2024
Total Mileage: 22 miles
Trail Type: Out-and-bak
Trailhead: Whitney Portal
Campsites: Trail Camp
Day 1: The Start of Two Adventures
Usually, I begin these trip reports right at the trailhead, with backpacks on and the first few steps underway, but for this trip- it felt important to rewind a bit. This hike wasn’t just another trek; it was a life-changing experience that deserved some extra context.
We chose to start in Alabama Hills, a campsite framed perfectly by Mount Whitney’s towering silhouette and a place we’ve returned to many times over the years. After a long, late-night drive from Santa Cruz, we pulled into our spot surrounded by boulders and immediately went to bed, my mind already on the trailhead and our summit plans for the next day. Reid, my partner, wasn’t in such a hurry. He wanted to slow down, watch the sunrise, and soak it all in. Being a photographer who is always chasing that perfect alpine glow, I was more than happy to go along.
What I didn’t expect that morning was to pull into the parking area near Movie Road and be surprised with an engagement right before our Mount Whitney summit. I cried. Reid got so overwhelmed he blacked out and forgot his speech. It was a beautiful moment, one that made this hike even more special to us. At the trailhead, still buzzing from the morning’s excitement, I had to remind Reid that most people don’t wear their engagement rings 24/7, and especially not while climbing a mountain. But with backpacks strapped, wag bags packed, and a bear can full of electrolytes and protein chips, we set off on the trail together.
(Huge shoutout to Jaymie Shearer of Desert Paintbrush Photography—not only for capturing such a special moment for us, but for being the kind of photographer who wakes up before sunrise and drives hours from Mammoth just to meet us in Alabama Hills.)
Day 1.5: Whitney Portal to Trail Camp
The first few miles of the trail were a blur- part nerves, part excitement after months of training and altitude prep, part adrenaline from getting engaged just hours prior. One thing that stood out right away was just how well-built and maintained the trail was. It’s a steady, gradual climb, which was a welcome surprise. We crossed several streams early on, stopping at one where Reid “fly fished” by dipping his line into a pool teeming with invasive, ever-hungry brown trout.
Shortly after we passed Mirror Lake, which made for a stunning midway stop and would’ve been a perfect lunch spot. From there, the terrain turned more alpine, with rockier tread, sun exposure, and a few steeper switchbacks leading up to Consolation Lake.
Around mile six, we arrived at Trail Camp- our home for the night. Tucked near a small pond where most hikers filter water before the final push, this high-alpine zone is a popular stop for overnight hikers. While campsites are clustered close together, it was still possible to find some privacy. We set up camp, unloaded our gear, and crawled into our sleeping bags, knowing our 4 a.m. wake-up call would come fast. Ahead: the infamous 1,000 switchbacks.
Day 2: The Summit
At 4am, our alarms went off and we slipped into summit mode- caffeine, oatmeal, layers of merino and my bright yellow Rab down jacket. The trail was pitch-black, lit only by our headlamps, and the stillness at Trail Camp buzzed with hikers quietly prepping for their own big push. We reached the base of the 1,000 switchbacks just as the first few tents flickered to life at 4:30.
Hiking in the dark helped me stay focused, and the cooler temps made the climb feel more manageable than expected. As we moved steadily up the switchbacks, we passed a few hikers and kept our pace. By first light, we could see the granite peaks above and the ribbon of headlamps behind us. Reid stayed a few switchbacks ahead, and I stayed locked in. After a few solid hours, we topped out at the crest after two miles, and hundreds of switchbacks. Hell yeah.
The sun rose as we moved along the backside of the mountain, looking out over Guitar Lake, Hitchcock Lakes, and the distant ridges in Sequoia-Kings Canyon- barely making out the area of Mineral King we were at just months ago looking at this very spot. We passed through rocky windows cut into the trail, the golden hour light hitting everything around us. Soon enough, the summit came into view and we could finally see the little stone hut marking the highest point in the Lower 48. At 8am, we reached the top. Four miles, four hours, and a lifetime memory: we signed the summit register with “Reid and Sierra, Santa Cruz, CA. We got engaged!”
We stayed a while, met a thru-hiker who’d spent the night up there (yes, it was below freezing), snapped photos, and even FaceTimed our families to share the news. Somehow, there was cell service. It remains one of my favorite moments of the trip- and maybe ever.
Eventually, we turned around and began the long descent. It went by quickly, helped along by high spirits, snacks, and dozens of fellow hikers buzzing with summit hopes and gear questions. We paused again at Mirror Lake for one last bit of fly fishing, then reached the trailhead sore, dusty, and still kind of glowing. That night, we stayed at the campground next door instead of driving out. The hosts gave us firewood, and we sat around the flames, still in awe of the mountain we’d just climbed.
Whitney Worthy: Gear I’m Glad I Packed
📸 Disposable Camera
I opted for a disposable camera on this trip to cut weight—my full-frame setup would’ve added over 6 pounds to my pack, which might not sound like much until you’re climbing 6,000+ feet in a day. The tradeoff? Totally worth it. It made the pack lighter, the hike easier, and the photos? Grainy, golden-hour perfection. There’s something extra special about getting film developed and reliving the moments weeks later.
⚡ Electrolyte Tablets
The altitude and sun can sneak up on you, especially above 10,000 feet. I kept SaltStick Electrolyte Fast Chews on hand, and a Liquid IV in my hip pouch at all times. This was vital for keeping my energy up and avoiding that dizzy, dry-mouth slump that can hit hard on big elevation days. Highly recommend stashing a few in an easy-to-reach pocket.
🎒 Lightweight Packable Backpack
This little pack earned its spot. I used it for side scrambles from camp and for organizing snacks, sunscreen, and extra layers. It weighs next to nothing and folds down to the size of a burrito, but gave me all the extra storage I needed for summit day. Technically, the pack I used came with my Gregory Maven 55 Backpack, but the REI Flash 18 is nearly identical.
🔦 Nitecore Rechargeable Headlamp
A non-negotiable for any alpine start. I was especially grateful for mine on summit morning when we hit the trail well before sunrise, and especially love that mine is rechargeable- instead of battery consuming. Make sure it’s fully charged and has a red light setting—your early-morning hiking partners will thank you. Nitecore also makes an ultralight version of this headlamp– using a thin string as the band!
🥜 Trail Snacks: Bars, Peanut Butter, Protein Chips
Fuel is everything on Whitney. I packed a rotation of bars, single-serve peanut butter packets, and protein chips, which gave me that satisfying combo of salty, sweet, and crunchy. I tend to lose my hunger , and really any appetite at all, on high-endurance days. These snacks made it so I could get something down and keep moving. Shoutout to my favorites: CLIF Nut Butter Bars, Quest Protein Chips, and the Justin’s Peanut Butter Packets.
Have any questions or comments about hiking or backpacking Mount Whitney? Leave them below!
Happy Hikin’!
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